Tanzania Day 9

March 2, 2012

We woke up to a foggy morning at Rhino Lodge and trudged to the dinning hall. After eating a delicious breakfast of eggs, fruit, and bacon, we packed up for the day's adventure. Ngorongoro Crater. 

The crater was formed by volcanic eruptions, and where once there was a vast and impressive volcano now stands all that remains of it; a broad flat plain surrounded by a circle of mountains. This was a volcano that had literally blown its top off. The drive down was rather steep, and I found myself leaning away from the edge most of the way down.

The grass here in the crater is almost all short, and leaves no place for predators to hide. We watched a hyena trail after a cheetah, hoping to steal the feline's meal, but the cheetah knew better and would not hunt while the hyena was around. 

the cheetah is on the left, hyena on the right, and a very brave (or foolish) impala stands in between them

It was interesting to see that most of the animals ignored the predators, perhaps because they would see the predators coming for them in the short grass, or perhaps because most predators hunt at night. 

We watched a Cori bustard fluff up his feathers and strut his stuff at the ladies, a truly humorous sight. He even made thrumming noises with his throat, which sounded like a big drum. 

We watched a few wildebeasts knock their heads together, while a common jackel slinked past, and watched a lone hyena stalk a small herd of wildebeasts, perhaps hoping the mother would wander away from its child, leaving it unprotected.

The Ngorongoro crater is one of the only places you can see a black rhino. Their numbers are few, and they are very timid. Our guide told us that they stay away because most of them can still remember being hunted by humans, though they are protected now. There are only 30 black rhino loeft, but they are slowly making a comeback. However, with a 14 month gestation period...it takes a while. 

What we saw next was difficult to describe, but I will try my best as it was a rare and important part of the trip. 

We had just passed a small herd of gazelle, and watched a young one foolishly prance away from its mother. Its mother raced after it and stamped her hooves, calling the little one back to her. 

That's when we saw the cheetah, walking calmly toward the gazelles from downwind.

 She stopped when she noticed the young one away from the others.

Then she began to slink into a crouch, walking casually close to the gazelle as she dared, before BOOM! She took off in a bound and leap toward the gazelle.

The baby turned tail and ran with the rest of the herd, but its small stride was nothing compared to the long elegant stride of the cheetah, its body built for speed.

Our jeep raced along side the cheetah, hoping to keep up, and in a cloud of dust and legs the cheetah caught the young gazelle and held it firmly in her teeth. Her prize, her victory.

The whole jeep was gasping and wide eyed from what we had just seen, and how deadly perfect the cheetah had taken out the animal. When she ran it made the gazelle look as though they were standing still. 

She catches her breathe and looks warily for anyone who might try and steal her kill.

The Ngorongoro crater is amazing because of all the wildlife you can see in one spot, and it is a must-see for things in Tanzania. 

Before leaving the crater we took a small lunch break by a lake filled with hippo, and birds and Guinea fowl attempted to beg for scraps.

Hey, hey, hey you! Give me your food!

We went back to Rhino lodge to grab our gear, and  departed for Karatu, to a lodge called Crater Rim View Inn. This lodge is in town, so there will no longer be any chance of waking up tot he sound of lions or monkeys on the roof. Instead, we are falling asleep to the sound of talking through the thin walls of the inn, and screaming from the bathroom (because the shower was too hot).

Tomorrow, we are going bow hunting with a tribe early in the morning, so time for sleep!